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Yes, that could be another repair to make on this chainsaw. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

Hi bobjoseph7051, I don't recall replacing a PCV valve on this model, but replacing a PCV valve is usually a 5-minute job. Identify where the PCV valve is located, find the part number for your vehicle, and get a replacement. Usually, it's a matter of carefully removing the old valve from the rubber grommet it may be sitting in, on the engine manifold, and also gently removing the rubber hoses. Once you have the new PCV valve, place it securely into the rubber grommet and reattach the rubber hoses. Sometimes the rubber hoses are rather stiff, especially if your vehicle is 10 years or older, so reattach the hoses carefully to the new part, so you do not break any plastic ports. My guess is also that if you have an O'Reilly or similar auto parts store, if you purchase the part there - ask if the tech will walk out and show you how to replace it. Because it only takes two minutes, they will likely do it for you. Thanks for watching and sharing your question. One other tip, when you remove the old PCV valve shake it and listen for the rattle. If it feels a bit "sticky" (especially compared to a new PCV valve that has a "clean sounding" rattle), you'll know it may be the culprit. It only costs a few dollars and a few minutes, so replacing it after 10-15 thousand miles is a good maintenance idea.

@@VintageVideos2009 I've been told the valve is under the intake manifold.

@@bobjoseph7051 Well, it's been over 5 years since I've owned this vehicle, but I seem to recall the PCV valve is located either on the top part of the engine manifold or the lower front part - both connections are where the rubber hose appears to attach to the engine manifold. I have a photo to attach. So, notice the two, 1" black hoses, on the driver side of the top of the engine. These two rubber hoses go over/near the ignition coil pack/distributor. Follow both hoses to where they attach to the engine manifold - the PVC valve should be there. Sorry I can't remember which on it was. I probably changed it 10 years ago now. You could also Google a diagram of the 1.9L engine for your model, and it will show you where this part is as well. Or reference a repair book. Again, the PVC valve is a pretty simple part to replace on most vehicles.

@@VintageVideos2009 Oops, my car is a Ford Escort ZX2 2002 Ford Escort ZX2, DOHC 4 cyl. 2.0l Engine.

@@bobjoseph7051 OK, I never owned the 2.0L, so I'm not familiar with where the PCV valve is on that model. I would still say to follow the hoses, and that they normally lead to the valve location. Good luck and thanks for sharing.

Hi fredA1234, I believe, yes, you could do that. You will want to freeze the unfinished portion promptly though. In other words, don't leave a 40% solution sitting in a refrigerator for several days (or worse, in warmer condition). You do want to place it into a freezer and get it frozen as soon as possible. There are a number of maple syrup makers that will condense their sap down, store it for a month, and finish it when they have the time to do so. I've found that by freezing either fresh sap, or condensed "near syrup", the final product of maple syrup will be in excellent shape because it remained frozen in storage most of the time. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and sharing your questions.

Yes, for all the casual viewers who think "every" EGR valve is a 30-minute job, some of these 2000-era minivans are horrible designs. Sorry about your 3-bolt set...I thought the 2-bolt job was challenging enough. I hope it all works out for you, and your Pontiac is back in service soon. Thanks for sharing the difficulties if your situation.

Well, sir, to be honest, if you quickly slide off the hose, and lift the hose up with your right hand, and plug the coolant manifold (I used a garbage bag to stuff it in tight) with your left hand, I think I dribbled maybe an ounce of coolant. So no, I didn't pour out of either opening to 30 seconds, or result in a gallon of coolant all over the engine or on the floor. In some cases you would be correct and you would want to place a container to collect coolant that would leak out during the hose removal and hose reattachment, but in our case, it was readily accessible and it only took a few seconds to remove and also to reattach the hose. But it's a good piece of advice on your part for most jobs that involve removing the coolant hoses, on most vehicles. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

Hi ubermenschmexa, sorry for the delay in responding. I'm thinking you would be able to consult an operator's manual (like I did for this Tsurumi pump) to see how to replace the impeller. I'm haven't crossed paths with a Barnes brand submersible, but replacing an impeller is pretty basic maintenance, which leads me to think it should not be that difficult. Here's a link to a Barnes page that may help, or if you locate the model number, and do a Google search, I think you'll find an answer. Sorry I can't help more. Here's the link. www.pumpcatalog.com/barnes/2sev-ds-l-series/2sev1592ds/

Hi maulor3, actually, the Pheasant Back mushrooms, when they are younger and fresh, taste pretty decent. That are a tad more bitter, then some other mushrooms. But place some butter in a frying pan, add the shrooms, sprinkle a little salt, pepper, maybe garlic powder - not too much of these, but just a pinch. And you have a pretty decent mushroom. The Pheasant Back mushrooms tend to grow at the same time as morels, so if you are new to mushroom picking and don't hit the jackpot with morels, the Pheasant Backs are worth taking home.

This engine is part of the Chevy Venture models late 90s through 2000s. Is your 3.4L in a sedan perhaps?

Hi, that is a great comment and something everyone needs to be aware of when searching for wild food and conducting wild foraging. Be aware of how close the foods you're gathering are to farm fields (such as fence rows) where the field may be sprayed with pesticides or other chemicals. Or even contaminated soils or groundwater. Great issue to mention- thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

Yes, I totally agree. Most people don't realize all of the neat waterfalls in this area of the country. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

They do seem to be pretty hardy, so hopefully you can get them to grow and flourish for you. Thanks for watching and sharing your comment.

Hi, yes, a small marshmallow - like the kind you put in a cup of hot chocolate. So you pull out the little cork on the end, and making sure the queen doesn't get out, or somehow get injured trying to get out, you jam a little white marshmallow into the hole where the cork was. Marshmallows are made up of pure sugar, so the bees will eat the marshmallow in a couple days and free the queen from her little cage. During the couple days the queen is inside the cage, she is releasing pheromones so all the bees within the colony will recognize her as their queen and their leader. This prevents her from being attacked or harmed. Wow, there's a lot going on inside the hive, isn't there? Thanks for watching and sharing your question. Here's how I did it myself a few years earlier. ruclips.net/video/jawLUApD9ZI/видео.htmlsi=r0GKGslAYflpFnar

Hi Earth4359, Yes, morel mushrooms are delish! I'm not totally obsessed, but I do try and get out several times in the season if I can. Weather has been a big factor here in southeastern Wisconsin the last few years - it's usually too dry locally. This year is a little better, but we still need an inch of rainfall again. Here's a video I created when looking for morels a few years ago. I also have found chanterelles, Chicken of the Woods, Hedgehog, Slippery Jacks, various Oysters, Scaber Stalk, Man-of-the-Woods, Pheasant-Backs and others. Morels are tops, but there are also so many other mushrooms out there to enjoy, along with wild asparagus, wild black raspberries, wild strawberries and more. Good luck out there - and hope you can avoid the tick bites as well.

Youth...not always the smartest age, is it? Thanks for watching and sharing your comment.

Hi anthony-ju6qo, thanks for watching and sharing your comments. I'm happy the video helps with your project! All the best.

Hey jeremypalmer7177, Well, for me, it would be GM engineering! For something so simple, as replacing an EGR valve, which will fail after maybe 60-80k miles - a replacement that is so easy on 90% of other vehicles, is such a huge pain-in-the-butt on this make and model. I know on my previous 1997 Chevy Venture, with the same 3.4L engine, the EGR valve was a very simple 20-minute job. So, yeah, I'm blaming the GM engineers for their choice on how to place this component. I hope you were able to get the job done, but I know it's one I would not like to do again, due in large part to the frustration level of it. Hey, thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

OK, it would seem that with lesser volume, you can evaporate more vigorously rather than heat a larger volume. And also, when you add more sap into the mix, as you pour some cold sap into a larger volume it appears to take longer to get it to more vigorously boil. So, are you heating the liquids equally yes - however if you heat a ton of steel and you heat a pound of steel, which is likely to heat faster? Yes, the pound of steel can cool off quicker than a ton of steel, but it can consequently be heated back up much faster even after it has cooled off. This has to do with heating and cooler larger amounts of mass, with the same heat applied. But if you want to see for yourself, take a large maybe 6 gallon stock pot and fill it with 5 gallons of water, and then take 1 gallon of water and apply the same heat. Which one of these will boil and evaporate more water in an hour? It will take 25 minutes to begin to boil the 5 gallon amount. You will begin boiling the 1-gallon amount in 5 minutes. This from a Google search: Less Water, Faster Boil: Smaller volumes of water heat up and boil more quickly due to requiring less energy to reach the boiling point. More Water, Slower Boil: Larger volumes of water take longer to reach the boiling point as they need more.

Thank you, this is a good explanation. I'm not sure I actually believe it, so I'm going to have to test it myself, but I appreciate you!

@@BaronOfDaker Hi yes, this is a very, very common practice for making maple syrup, that being, to heat up lesser volumes of sap, bringing the sap to its boiling point faster, and as a result, boiling a lot more sap more efficiently. Yes, give it a try, heat up sap in a kettle that is 12" deep vs heating up sap that is less than 2" deep. If the same heat is applied, you should boil off more sap with the smaller volume. Thanks for watching!

Hi OriginalJsmooth735, thanks for watching and sharing your comments. $175 for shop labor charge seems pretty legit. I did not mention the Dexcool issues, when creating this video 10 years ago. I believe very few mechanics use any Dexcool products at this time - I certainly stopped using it about 8 years ago. But thanks for bringing it to the viewers attention in these comments.

Well, because we live in Wisconsin. Two days ago, we had snow on the ground, with flurries and sleet falling on March 24th. Earlier today it was in the mid-50s, and now the forecast is for temps in the 20s overnight with wild chills in the teens. Yup, Spring weather in Wisconsin can mean 8" of wet snow, or 75 degrees and T-storms or sunshine. When we have a 50-degree sunny day, the bees are usually happy to be out, looking for new pollen from tree buds. Thanks for watching and sharing your questions.

Thanks for your kind words about our video. Hope your next search finds a video that is more helpful.

Thank you very much for watching and sharing your comments. Vegas has changed so much since the 80s, when smaller wedding venues like this were popular along The Strip. We're still married and going strong! ❤

Thank you so much. I hope it helps you make the very best syrup. Thanks for watching.

Glad it was helpful!

Hi fredA1234, great questions. So, I just shared this info to the Ontario Maple Syrup makers page. So, for 1% it's 86:1 ratio, 2% is 43:1 ratio, and 3% is 28.7 to 1 ratio. You can Google a chart that shares these numbers, and all the tenths in between. This is very handy, when you want to see if the sap is worthwhile to boil. Plus it also gives you some idea what your finishing amount will be if you keep track of how many gallons of sap you are boiling. Thanks for watching our channel.

Hi, thanks for watching and sharing your comment with us!

Hi northerngirlhobbies, thanks for watching and sharing your comment. Wishing you all the best on your maple syrup making journey! I also subscribed to your channel - thanks for all the neat outdoor videos you share.

Yes, once the spears separate into seedy limbs, it's wise to leave it and not pick it. The stalks at that stage begin to have a more woody texture also - so they are not as tender as younger shoots. Good points - thanks for sharing!

Hi macknumber9, both of your answers are correct. In this video, we carefully used a metal scraper to remove the old material - remember, carefully is the word. If you're a bit uncertain about it, a plastic scraper may take slightly longer, but it should not affect the softer aluminum surface. Thanks for watching and sharing your questions!

Hi stefanlopez5823, thanks for watching and sharing your kind words. Congrats on keeping your Tracer Wagon running with 210K miles. Very nice. My Tracer was sold off a few years ago, but was still running in good condition at the time. Hopefully you won't need this starter video, or a starter replacement any time soon! All the best.

Well, collected sap, made maple syrup...but there are different levels depending on whether you sell it commercially or just consume among family & friends.

Hi spankyv, thanks for sharing your comments. Well, this would be considered very fast sap flow. I have seen it even faster, but to fill a 5-gallon bucket overnight or in about 12 hours, is very good, and a but unusual. Remember, on average, for an entire season, a single maple tap provides 10 gallons over a 6-week season. So, we are getting 50% of that in just one day. Thanks for watching!

Well, yes, for most components - it's great to show how they are removed. But much like replacing a starter- on this particular engine model and for the Chevy Venture - you can't see anything with a camera. In hindsight, it would have been prudent to shoot a little video of the new EGR valve showing where the bolts attach, after removing the part from the box. But, there is no space, even for a cell phone to fit back in there, to obtain removal footage and install footage, of the bolts. That is why I spent quite a bit of time explaining all the tools you'll need and the fact that most EGR valves are a simple, 30-minute job, but this one takes about 4 hours. You'll see if you work on this particular model vehicle and engine, what I'm talking about. Most EGR valves though, very simple stuff. Good luck with your repair.

@@VintageVideos2009The problem I have is that there’s a whole other hose bolted to the back of the EGR Valve (2000 Pontiac Montana). I might’ve realized our EGR valves were different before getting stuck there if you showed it. :( Now My EGR valve is “rocking around” like yours but still tethered by a bolt I can’t get leverage on (while EGR valve moves). Only option was to put the bolts I fought with for hours back in and, of course, I dropped one deep into the engine bay. Now I only hope the THIRD bolt isn’t damaged from being forced to try without proper leverage. What a nightmare!

Lightscape is a fantastic event, and they change it each year. I'm sure you'll be rewarding with some new displays and scenes. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments with us!

Black Walnut syrup is similar in color to maple syrup, but it doesn't have the same type of maple flavoring. Instead, it has a minor nutty, but sweet flavor to it. Honestly, 100 people who have tried it- and 75% prefer Black walnut to maple syrup. I never thought I'd hear that.

Hi @Blackdog4818, you have a lot of great questions. So, yes, your observation that the raw sap that drips in will not be cooked yet, but honestly, the vast majority of the sap in your pan is not cooked very much. The reason being, that sap in 97% water, so reducing it by 50% changes it very, very little. Let's say for example you had 20 gallons of sap to boil. If you reduce it down by 50%, that resulting mixture is still probably over 90% water yet. The real change over happens when you've reduced the amount by over 90%, taking that 20 gallons down to 2 gallons, and honestly, it needs to get down to less than 1 gallon, before you'll start to notice a minor change in color, as it gets closer to syrup. So, that's why we keep dripping in the sap or sap ice, for a long, long time! However, as you pointed out, when you decide to finish a batch, you'll no longer drip any fresh sap into the mix, instead, you'll keep evaporating the mix until you raise the temperature from boiling (about 212) to finished syrup (about 219 or 220). So, it really doesn't make sense to drain a 50% reduced-mixture, because it has a long, long way to go to boil down. Adding a 50% mixture to a new batch, would be almost like adding brand new sap - because very little of the water has been evaporated at that stage. I hope this all makes sense? Great question - perhaps I'll talk about it more in-depth on a future maple video. Thanks for watching and best of luck with your maple season.

My cousin tapped two maple trees this year and got about 10 gallons of sap water. He's been boiling it down, but he did it in his house and it took forever....lol. He ended up about 5% of crystals at the bottom of his boil. Is that normal? Is there a way to avoid that? Otherwise, looked pretty good.

I have a video on my RUclips channel that talks about the maple crystals. Basically, it means the syrup is slightly overcooked. This merely makes it a bit thicker, but it is perfectly fine. When you finish off the syrup, take the crystals and put them in your coffee, tea or beverage for some maple flavor. The crystals are edible too. Slightly overlooking the syrup is better than undercooked it. If undercooked, mold and bacteria can keep growing, so your friend is ok with what he did. Congrats on your first batch! It's great, isn't it?

Thanks so much!!

@@Blackdog4818 You're very welcome. Thanks for watching our video.

Hi thecosmoligist, sure thing. Subscribe to my channel, and visit my Maple syrup videos, and you'll see the sap boiling in the large stainless steel maple pan.

Yes, the syrup is quote good. The dye is also rich and long-lasting.

Hey tommysullivan2911 - well there's a bit more to it than that. The leakage right next to the tree will not be collected into your sap container. So every drop that runs down the tree is a drop missed. Over the course of the season, if the leak persists, you can easily lose 10-15% of the yield from each leaky tap hole. Does that make sense on why it's so important for the area right next to the tree to be precise, and that it has so much to do with the sap dripping into the tap and your bucket. Thanks for watching!

We totally agree! Thanks for your comment.

O-K. Not for you I guess. No worries.

Shut up

Hi jenniferbundy4301, thanks for watching and sharing your questions with us. Yes, I used some very large field stones and S mortar, to create this large field stone evaporator. I was indeed having the same issues as you are, with the cinder blocks, namely they would crack for me after nearly every 12 hours of boiling. And with the large 2 foot x 4 foot pan, it would no longer be level, and was very untrustworthy for me to leave it, and hope that the cinder blocks would not crumble any further or cause a catastrophe. So, I designed and constructed my field stone evaporator, that works very much like a commercial unit. I lined the fire box area with S Mortar. And while the S mortar is still intact and works, lining with firebrick might be even better (although a bit more expensive) - just for the fire box area. I also used clay chimney liners to build the chimney and now I added an 8-foot extension of 10"flue pipe to gain even more draft. Here's a link to my "Field Stone Evaporator" video so you can see how I built the unit. It was done over a two-week period, so all the mortar was fully cured, during the off-season. Other people who use barrel stoves, or oil barrels have told me my idea is much, much better. It stays in one location, is always level, it does not rust, it needs very little upkeep. I welcome you to subscribe to my channel for more maple videos. Here's a link for on how I made it. ruclips.net/video/It1sFaW5u2E/видео.htmlsi=CRPwYHMi_nbMUs9F

Hi, great question. For sap, any temperature over freezing will result in it spoiling. However, at 33 degree F, it may take 7 or 10 days, for it to degrade. In your refrigerator, at 36 degrees, the sap will remain viable for about 5-7 days. At 50 degrees, the sap will spoil in less than 8 hours. Remember, that's the temperature of the sap - not necessarily the ambient temperatures. As you may have seen in our video, the outside temperature in the sunshine was 51 degrees, but our sap was 38 degrees. This is common early in the season, when the ground is still very cold. Later in the season, mid-March for example, the soil will heat up into the 40s, and when combined with a very warm, sunny day - at 60 degrees, the sap will spoil in 4 hours in the midday sunshine. So, it's essential to keep the sap cold...the colder, the better. If you freeze the sap, you can keep it for a year, in a chest freezer and thaw it out and boil it to make delicious syrup. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching our channel!

Thank you very much for watching and sharing your comment!

Thanks for watching and sharing your comments. I price quote is somewhat difficult, without knowing the exact depth of your well, the horsepower of the submersible pump and other details. This particular job was approximately $2,000, and costs have gone us significantly since then. If you live within an hour of the Milwaukee area, please give us a call, for more information and details.

Hi, thanks for watching and sharing your comments. Interesting thoughts about bleeding this EGR valve? Based on the manufacturers part installation - the Manufacturer did not mention bleeding this part following installation. However, after the installation, your onboard computer will recalibrate to this new EGR part, and should both eliminate your "check engine" light and return your vehicle to optimum running condition. There is no coolant traveling through this system, unlike thermostats - thus no coolant to bleed. Is that the question or concern? The EGR valve does not control the flow of coolant. Thanks for your comment. Not sure if all our other viewers have some other experience with the EGR valve and want to weigh in?